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Espalier
Espalier is the training of a tree to be decorative as well as
producing fruit. They do not require any special skills by the grower,
but take time to achieve good results.
ESPALIER - A central stem with horizontal arms tied along supporting
wires.
CORDON - A true cordon is a single straight rod grown either upright
or, obliquely (slanting). Mutiple cordons, lattice, double "U"
and triple cordons, are useful formore vigorous varieties.
WHICH ROOTSTOCK
For apples we would suggest MM106 and Northern Spy rootstocks with
almost any variety budded onto these. If you wish to use EM9 it
is important to chose a variety which is naturally vigorous as the
espalier training is reasonably severe and this combined with the
EM9 dwarfing gives doublen dwarfing, patience is required. Pears
that are grown on Quince BA29 are suitable for espaliering and for
stone fruit choose St. Julien or Pixie which have a dwarfing effect.
For cherries try colt rootstock.
WHICH VARIETY & WHAT SHAPE
Almost any variety of apple/pear is suitable for espalier or cordon
(depending on rootstock.) Stone fruit (peaches, nectarines, plums
and cherries) are best suited to fan shaped espalier as their more
brittle wood is difficult to train on the horizontal lines.
WHERE DO I PLANT IT AND HOW DO I ATTACH IT?
As with most fruit trees espalier require a sunny site sheltered
from wind, but if prone to spring frosts adequate air circulation
is necessary. They can be grown along walls and fences but beware
of north facing brick walls and iron fences as the heat reflected
from these may scorch the tree. If a suitable wall is not present
they can be grown along a free standing fence strung with wires.
Posts should be approx 4-5 m apart for espalier and 2m of post above
ground. 5 wires should be tightly strungbetween posts, with the
first wire 30/45cm above the ground and the h others at 30cm intervals.
Cordon posts should be approx 3 m apart with 1.5/2 m post above
ground, 3 wires should be enough with the bottom wire 60 cm from
the ground and the others 45/60 cm apart. Hessian, rubber, nylon
stockings make satisfactory tying materials.
TRAINING STANDARD ESPALIER
One year old unbranched "whips" are best, but if branched
trees are only available, they can be converted into whips by retaining
the straightest leader and cutting away the rest. After plant ing
the central leader is reduced to 5 cm below the first wire and when
growth occurs only the top 3 shoots should be allowed to grow. The
top shoot is tied to an upright cane that is secured to the wires.
The 2 side shoots will become the 2 lowest branches. Tie side shoots
to canes at an angle ofabout 45 so the laterals maintain their growing
vigour while training is started. In autumn/winter remove these
side supporting canes and tiethe branches to the horizontal wires.
With the central stem again cut back to about 5 cm below the second
wire to train the next tier. Continue every season until top wire
when you only retain 2 buds to tie down.
TRAINING FAN ESPALIER
For stonefruit the central leader is cut out, leaving 2 vigorous
side shoots which are trained outwards at 30 -45 angle to encourage
branching. As they fruit only on 1 year wood, there must be a continual
renewal of growths to carry fruit. Fruit the lateral one year, after
harvest 2 shorten to a side shoot near the base.
TRAINING CORDON - OBLIQUE
Again 1 year old unbranched "whips" are best with side
shoots shortened to 3 buds. If only branched trees are available,
select the straightest leader, cut the remaining leaders right back.
Plant at the angle intended for training. Summer prune - Strong
lateral shoots longer than 30 cm, cut back to 4-5 buds Winter prune
- Prune according to the amount of growth made. Laterals up to 10
cm should be left uncut. Laterals 10-20 cm long should be left uncut
in year 1 and the following winter shortened back to a bud on 2
year old wood. This is done to encourage year old laterals to develop
fruit buds. Laterals longer than 20 cm can either be cut to 3 buds
or tied down so that the tips are below the horizontal to encourage
fruit buds on laterals. Following winter untie and shorten to 15
cm.
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